Do this today
- •Study the race course — identify favored end and first mark position
- •Create a Plan A and Plan B for your start strategy
- •Practice the "6-10 Practice Starts" drill — focus on acceleration and timing
- •Work on accelerating from stationary to full foil speed — practice 10-second bursts
- •Run through the "Last 60 seconds" checklist before every start
Common Mistakes
- • Going to the layline too early — work the shifts, don't sail straight to the mark
- • Starting too close to the pin or boat end — no room to accelerate if you're late
- • Over-sheeting at the start — you need power to accelerate, not maximum height
- • No escape route — always have a Plan B if Plan A gets blocked
- • Ignoring the first beat strategy until after the start — plan your route during the countdown
Start Fundamentals on Foil
Starting on foil is different from displacement sailing. You need speed to foil, so acceleration is critical. The key is being at full foil speed as you cross the line—not before (you'll be over early) and not after (you'll be left behind).
The Acceleration Phase
Build speed from 10-15 seconds before the start. Sheet in smoothly, drive your body weight forward, and build power. You should be approaching full foil speed as the gun goes.
At the Gun
You should be at full foil speed, on the line (not over), in clear air. Don't look back—focus forward and execute your first beat plan. Small adjustments only—no big tacks or major course changes.
Clear Air is Essential
Foiling requires clean airflow. If you're behind other boats, you won't have the power to foil. Start in clear air even if it means a less favorable position. Better to start slightly back in clear air than buried in the pack.
Pre-Start Plan (Plan A / Plan B)
Have two strategies ready. Plan A is your preferred option. Plan B is your escape route if Plan A gets blocked or conditions change. Decide on both during your course reconnaissance.
Plan A: Preferred Strategy
•Starting position: Pin end, middle, or boat end? Why?
•First beat route: Left side, right side, or work the middle?
•Conditions: What makes this plan good for today's wind/current?
•Timing: When do you need to commit? (Usually 1 minute signal)
Plan B: Escape Route
•When to use: Plan A gets blocked, crowded, or conditions change
•Alternative position: Different end of line, or different area
•Alternative route: Opposite side of course, or work the middle
•Commitment point: When do you switch from A to B? (Usually 30-45 seconds)
Quick Fix
Pinned? Escape route: If you're pinned on the line with no room to accelerate, you have two options: 1) Sail behind the fleet and find clear air (accept a bad start but maintain foil speed), or 2) If there's space, duck a boat or two to get clear air. Better to be slightly behind in clear air than buried with no power. Don't try to fight through dirty air—you won't foil.
Last 60 Seconds Checklist
Execute your start with precision. Use this checklist in the final minute before the gun.
60 Seconds
• Commit to Plan A or switch to Plan B
• Move toward your chosen starting area
• Check wind direction and strength (has it changed?)
• Verify your equipment settings
30 Seconds
• Final positioning—you should be near the line but not over
• Keep moving—don't get caught stopped
• Watch for other boats—maintain clear air
• Check your position relative to the line
10 Seconds
• Begin acceleration—sheet in, drive forward
• Build speed smoothly—don't rush
• Aim to be at full foil speed as you cross the line
• Focus forward—don't look back
GO (0 Seconds)
• You should be at full foil speed, on the line, in clear air
• Execute your first beat plan immediately
• Small adjustments only—no big course changes
• Don't look back—focus on speed and your route
First Beat: 3 Modes
The first beat on foil has three distinct modes. Choose based on your start position, fleet position, and conditions. You may switch modes during the beat as situations change.
1. High Mode (Point Mode)
Goal: Maximize height and minimize distance to the mark. Sail as high as possible while maintaining foil speed.
Use when: You're ahead and want to cover, you need to make the layline, or you're on the lifted tack. Sail slightly higher angle than your fastest VMG.
Technique: Sheet in more, drive your weight forward, maintain foil speed but sacrifice some speed for height.
2. Low-Fast Mode (Speed Mode)
Goal: Maximize speed and VMG. Sail slightly lower than high mode but faster. Better distance made good per unit of time.
Use when: You need to catch up, you're in clear air and can work the shifts, or you're behind and need to make gains. Best VMG angle.
Technique: Balanced sheet trim, optimized body position, focus on foil speed and clean technique. Work the shifts—tack on headers.
3. Survival Mode
Goal: Stay foiling and avoid major losses. Priority is maintaining control and foil speed, not optimal angle.
Use when: You're in dirty air, conditions are challenging, you've made a mistake, or you're just trying to limit damage. Sail lower, faster, find clear air.
Technique: Sail lower to maintain speed, focus on control, find clear air as soon as possible. Don't try to point—just keep foiling.
Switching Modes
You may switch modes during the beat. Start in high mode to make the layline, then switch to low-fast when you have room. Or start in survival to find clear air, then switch to low-fast or high once clear. Be flexible—conditions and fleet position change.
Layline Management on Foil
On foil, layline management is different. You can't luff or slow down easily, so you need to plan ahead. Work the shifts before committing to the layline.
Don't Go to Layline Too Early
On foil, you can't easily slow down or luff. If you hit the layline too early, you'll over-stand the mark and lose distance. Work the shifts—tack on headers (wind shifts that head you away from the mark) to stay in phase with the wind.
When to Commit to Layline
Commit when you're close enough that you can make the mark even if the wind heads you slightly. Typically, this is when you're within 2-3 minutes of the mark at your current speed. Err on the side of being slightly under the layline rather than over.
Over-Standing
If you over-stand (sail past the layline), you'll lose distance. On foil, you can't easily slow down to compensate. If you realize you're over-standing, tack early rather than sailing further past the layline.
One Drill: 6–10 Practice Starts Scoring Rubric
Practice makes perfect. Use this drill to improve your starts systematically. Do 6-10 practice starts in a session, scoring each one using the rubric below.
6-10 Practice Starts Drill
Setup:
• Set up a start line (use two marks or visual references)
• Practice your 1-minute, 30-second, 10-second timing
• Focus on acceleration and line positioning
For Each Start, Score Yourself (1-5 points each):
1. Timing
5 = Perfect timing (at full speed exactly at gun) | 3 = Close but slightly early/late | 1 = Over early or way late
2. Acceleration
5 = Smooth, powerful acceleration to full foil speed | 3 = Good but not optimal | 1 = Stalled or rushed
3. Line Position
5 = On the line, optimal position | 3 = Close but not ideal | 1 = Way off line or bad position
4. Clear Air
5 = Perfect clear air | 3 = Some dirty air but manageable | 1 = Buried in dirty air
5. First Beat Execution
5 = Executed plan perfectly | 3 = Good but some mistakes | 1 = Lost the plot
Target Score
Aim for 20+ points out of 25 per start. If you're consistently scoring below 18, focus on the areas where you're losing points. Track your scores over multiple sessions to see improvement.
What to do next
Continue building your sailing knowledge with these related guides: